The Culinary Heart of Shimla: A Personal Quest for the Best Food & Local Flavours
The Culinary Heart of Shimla: A Personal Quest for the Best Food & Local Flavours
I remember the first time I stepped onto Shimla’s Mall Road in the crisp air of early March. The colonial lamp posts were just beginning to glow, and the distant silhouette of the Christ Church looked like something out of a Victorian novel. But I wasn't there for the architecture. I was there because I’d heard that the real soul of the ‘Queen of Hills’ doesn’t reside in its scenery, but in the steam rising from a clay oven in a Middle Bazaar alleyway.
Over the years, my relationship with Shimla has become less about sightseeing and more about the sensory map I’ve drawn across its ridges.
From the buttery, saffron-infused *Dham* served in traditional copper vessels to the wood-fired pizzas of modern-day cafes, Shimla is a place where history is tasted.
1. The Sacred Feast: Chasing the Traditional Himachali Dham
If you haven’t sat on a low stool in a dimly lit room, waiting for a ‘Bot’ (traditional chef) to serve you *Madra* on a leaf plate, you haven’t truly visited Himachal. My quest for the most authentic *Dham* led me to Himachali Rasoi, tucked away in the Middle Bazaar near the Shiv Temple.
Unlike the tourist-trap restaurants on the main road, Himachali Rasoi feels like stepping into someone’s home. The air is thick with the scent of slow-cooked lentils and toasted spices. I opted for the Kangri Dham (they alternate between Kangri and Mandyali styles depending on the day).
The meal began with *Madra*—chickpeas cooked in a rich, velvety yogurt gravy with a hint of raisins. Then came the *Sepu Badi* (black lentil nuggets in spinach) and the tangy *Khatta* (a pumpkin and chickpea dish that balances the heaviness of the yogurt). Eating with my hands, the traditional way, made the experience feel grounded. It wasn’t just food; it was a rhythmic sequence of textures and temperatures developed over centuries to sustain mountain people through harsh winters.
Logistics Tip: Don't expect a quick in-and-out experience. This is slow food. I arrived at 12:30 PM just as they were opening for lunch, which is the best time to beat the local rush.
2. Morning Rituals: Chana Bhatura at Sita Ram & Sons
Every local I spoke to gave me the same advice: "Go to Lakkar Bazaar early, or you’ll miss Sita Ram’s Chana."
I walked up the steep slope past the Ridge, the morning sun hitting the Jakhu Hill statue, until I reached the small, no-frills stall of Sita Ram & Sons. This place has been a Shimla institution since the 1940s. There are no fancy chairs here; you stand or find a spot on the ledge outside.
The *Bhatura* here isn't the oily, balloon-like version you find in Delhi. It’s slightly fermented, soft, and thick, perfect for scooping up the dark, spiced *Chana*. What makes it special is the accompanying onion chutney and the green chilies that pack a punch. I stood there, elbow-to-elbow with local office workers and shopkeepers, feeling like I’d finally cracked the code of a Shumla morning.
3. A Nostalgic Sip: The Indian Coffee House
Walking into the Indian Coffee House on Mall Road is like entering a time capsule. The waiters still wear the starched white uniforms with peacock-style fans on their turbans, just as they did in 1957.
I sat in one of the high-backed wooden booths, surrounded by elderly gentlemen debating politics over tiny cups of filter coffee. There is a certain "shabbiness" to the place that I find incredibly charming—it’s a rejection of the glossy, corporate cafe culture. I ordered the *Masala Dosa* and a hot coffee. It’s not the best dosa in the world, but the atmosphere is unbeatable. It’s where I go when I want to write or simply observe the rhythm of the city.
4. The Afternoon Slow-Down: Wake & Bake Cafe
When the sun is high and the Mall Road gets too crowded, I find sanctuary at Wake & Bake Cafe. Located on the first floor overlooking the Town Hall, this cafe is a haven for backpackers and artists.
The yellow walls are covered in doodles and postcards, and the smell of freshly baked bread is intoxicating. My go-to order is the Hummus and Pita Platter followed by their famous Apple Cinnamon Pancakes. I’ve spent countless hours in their window seat, watching the pigeons swirl over the Ridge while sipping an iced latte. It’s the perfect blend of modern Shimla—international flavors rooted in a local, laid-back mountain vibe.
5. Artistic Evenings: Cafe Simla Times
For my final evening, I headed toward the Cafe Simla Times, located within Hotel Willow Banks. This place is a visual masterpiece. The walls are hand-painted with murals depicting the history of Shimla, and the outdoor terrace offers a 180-degree view of the valley.
I arrived just as the sun was setting, painting the sky in shades of bruised purple and gold. I ordered a wood-fired pizza—thin crust, topped with local mushrooms—and settled in for the live acoustic set. As the valley lights flickered on like a fallen constellation, I realized that Shimla’s food culture is its bridge between the past and the future.
6. The Forest Treat: Sidu in the Wild
On one of my walks toward the Advance Study area, I stumbled upon a small roadside stall where an elderly lady was steaming Sidu. Sidu is a fermented wheat bread stuffed with a paste of poppy seeds or lentils.
She served it to me hot, sliced open with a massive dollop of *desi ghee* (clarified butter) and a side of spicy mint chutney. The contrast between the soft, bready exterior and the nutty, earthy filling is something I still dream about. It’s the ultimate comfort food for a chilly Shimla afternoon.
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My Personal Culinary Itinerary (3 Days in Shimla)
Day 1: The Classics
* Breakfast: Sita Ram & Sons (Lakkar Bazaar). Get there by 10 AM.
* Lunch: Himachali Rasoi (Middle Bazaar). Go for the full Dham.
* Evening: Coffee at Indian Coffee House. Grab a window seat if you can.
Day 2: The View Seekers
* Lunch: Wake & Bake Cafe. Try the wood-fired pizza or the Mediterranean platter.
* Afternoon Snack: Sidu from a street stall near the State Museum or Summer Hill.
* Dinner: Cafe Simla Times. Must-visit for the sunset and live music.
Day 3: Colonial Luxury
* Breakfast: Honey Hut (Mall Road) for their honey-infused ginger tea.
* Lunch: Eighteen71 Cookhouse for a more upscale, multi-cuisine experience.
* Farewell: High Tea at The Oberoi Cecil (Chaura Maidan). It’s pricey, but the heritage ambiance is worth it.
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